IN THE SEEMS ARTICLE FROM NOVEMBER 8, 2010
Nestled in a tiny little storefront in Russian Hill right off of the hustle and bustle of Polk Street lies a fantabulous treasure trove of an antique store that you might think twice about walking into unless you know about the amazingness hidden inside.
I came across this little gem, MDVII Antiques, one lazy Saturday quite by accident whilst strolling down the street after a little brunch. It was my fiancé actually who noticed it first and suggested we go in . . . he knows me and my love of antiques and vintage so very well.
Here’s the little storefront that drew us in:
Right when we walked into the petit, crowded space I knew whomever owned this spot was serious, seriously knowledgeable with a very discerning eye.
The front was piled high with amazing Venetian Murano glass in every fabulous color imaginable – canary yellow, pale pink, mint green, aquamarine – Chinese Cloisonné, German Porcelain, Venini lighting (wall sconces and chandeliers) and French and English Furniture.
Here are some pics of the fabulous finds in the front of the shop:
The best was yet to come, however, as I made my way to the back of this little shop. Not able to take the clutter (thank goodness one of us has that instinct in our relationship!) my fiancé made his way outside while I continued to explore.
Waiting for me in the back of this fabulous find were the two absolute best parts of MDVII Antiques: Susie Hoimes, the buyer, owner and antique loving mastermind behind MDVII and the most amazing vintage jewelry collection this side of the Atlantic.
See Susie presiding over her fab. treasure of a shop:
In velvet lined black cases and fabulous old boxes piled from floor to ceiling – literally!! – were an endless number of beauteous pieces of high-end vintage costume jewelry from the greats: Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Early Kenneth Jay Lane, Christian Lacroix,Coppola E Toppo, Elsa Schiaparelli, Dior from the 60’s., Lanvin from the 60’s, and on and on and on . . .
Pics of the the jewelry madness below:
Floor to Ceiling Treasure Filled Boxes
Baubles Galore!
More Baubles . . .
Jewels Everywhere!
One could spend hours going through all the chains and bibs and earrings and cuffs – thousands of pieces Susie gets mostly from private estates in California and Paris.
And then there is Susie herself, a gem in her own right. She hales from London and opened MDVII about eight years ago to fulfill her passion for antiques and vintage jewelry. Her charming British accent and warm personality make you feel right at home in her lovely shop. Additionally, her expert knowledge and discriminating taste make it hard to yank yourself away as she pulls piece after piece from her extensive collection housed in those glorious black velvet lined boxes . . .
Before you know it hours and vast amounts of money have been lost, especially by those of us who just can’t resist quality vintage – you know who you are! (or, at least I do . . insert sheepish grin here); and, this little treasure truly has the best vintage costume jewelry collection I have ever seen . . .
As I said in a post a few weeks ago in my introduction to In The Seams San Francisco this foggy city is replete with gems like MDVII Antiques and Susie Hoimes . . . you just have to be patient and do a wee bit of searching . . . and, of course read my blog!
Recently I had the pleasure of chatting with Susie about her love of high-end vintage costume jewelry, how she got started in the business and all that jazz. I know you will enjoy her answers as much as I did.
In The Seams
Tell me a little bit about what exactly you do . . .
Susie Hoimes
Well I have an antique business, which specializes in high-end vintage costume jewelry and great Venetian glass. I specialize in all kinds of costume jewelry from Chanel to Kenny Lane {Kenneth Jay Lane} to Coppola E Toppo from Italy in the 60’s. Basically all costume jewelry of the 20th century.
In The Seams
How long have you been in business?
Susie Hoimes
Eight Years. I always loved antiques ever since I was little. My father loved antiques. He collected books on East Africa and so did my grandparents and so I think it’s genetic.
In The Seams
What is your background / story? How did you get started in the antiques / vintage jewelry business?
Susie Hoimes
Being British as a little girl, even though I was born in East Africa, I would go to England a lot and go to the antique markets; and, the old antique markets in London used to be fabulous. There were wonderful things there, not so much costume jewelry because actually France, Italy and America excelled at that, but wonderful old objects. I have always loved vintage and old things because they are just interesting and more unique and usually made better. So that’s really how I started. And my parents loved antiques so I was always exposed to them; and, I just always loved antiques of all kinds, from the 18th century to the 20th century. And the wonderful thing about high-end costume jewelry is that it’s well made compared to pieces today, which are churned out and mass produced.
In The Seams
So what did you do before you opened your store here?
Susie Hoimes
I have a degree in fine arts from NYU and I have always loved the museums in London and I would always go to the Victoria Albert Museum. I spent hours in museums.
In The Seams
How did you become such an expert?
Susie Hoimes
Well it’s a nice thing to think that I’m an expert but really it’s about a passion. You know when you love something it’s not really work. I just love everything about vintage jewelry. I love all the pieces, and after you see a lot of them you start to really know who designed which pieces. Also, most of them are signed but some of them aren’t signed. Sometimes they have paper tags like the old Elsa Schiaparelli pieces and sometimes the tags have come off. But, again, when you look at enough pieces you start to know and recognize who designed which pieces and when. And, I think, to be an expert, is to constantly be learning, which is the best part. So, I love what I do.
In The Seams
Where do you find all your amazing pieces??
Susie Hoimes
I find most of my amazing pieces privately. They’re not really in flea markets. There tends to be mediocre pieces in flea markets because the people who own the great costume jewelry bought them in wonderful shops and they either keep them and hand them down to their children – their daughters and granddaughters – or they end up selling them to somebody who owns a wonderful little shop much like the one where they purchased the piece from originally.
In The Seams
Where (what city, etc.) is your favorite place to buy?
Susie Hoimes
I buy a lot in San Francisco, locally, because I have lots of good contacts here privately. There is some wonderful high-end vintage costume jewelry in San Francisco because people traveled and continue to travel a lot. There was a lot of wealth in San Francisco at the turn of the century and later on. So I have bought some wonderful pieces here. And I also buy from France. I have a lady who finds me wonderful things in Paris.
In The Seams
Who is your favorite jewelry designer?
Susie Hoimes
I love early Chanel, the early Chanel pieces are timeless, and they are just wonderful pieces of art. Not only are they traditional but they go through time and they are a little edgy as well at times. They are just classics.
Some pics. of a few of Susie’s fab. Chanel Pieces:
Chanel Hoop Earrings
Chanel Gilt Bangle
Chanel Earrings
Chanel Pearl Necklace
Chanel Pearl Necklace, Detail
Chanel Earrings
Chanel Cuff
Chanel Earrings
And More Chanel Earrings
In The Seams
Who or what inspires you the most?
Susie Hoimes
I love dramatic pieces of Jewelry. I love pieces that are well made so I love Yves Saint Laurent’s work; Chanel’s work; Kenny Lane’s {Kenneth Jay Lane} work from the sixties – his early work. I love some of the Italian pieces from Coppola E Toppo. They were like Italy’s Chanel really and I love those pieces. Those are some of my favorites really.
Some fab. Kenny Lane & Yves Saint Laurent pieces in Susie’s shop:
Kenneth Jay Lane, Silver Gilt & Bakelite, 1960's
Kenneth Jay Lane, Silver Gilt & Bakelite, 1960's
Yves Saint Laurent, Double Pendant Necklace, 1970's
Yves Saint Laurent, Gold Earrings, 1970's
Yves Saint Laurent, 1970's, Paris
In The Seams
I am sure you have seen and found some amazing pieces throughout your career. What have been some of the most amazing? Most noteworthy?
Susie Hoimes
Some Wonderful Yves Saint Laurent pieces; some of the great bibs from the 60’s by Kenny Lane {Kenneth Jay Lane} . . . the big dramatic bibs that he did with incredible colors like turquoise and coral; some amazing early Chanel pieces with quilting and crystals and all the great pearl pieces that Chanel did.
In The Seams
Whose pieces (which Jewelry designer’s) do you think are the most timeless?
Susie Hoimes
I would have to say Chanel and particularly when Madame Grixpoix was designing for Chanel. . . the earlier pieces.
In The Seams
What pieces (both by designer & style) continue to sell the best?
Susie Hoimes
Without a doubt pieces that are signed by well known designers; Chanel, obviously; Kenneth Jay Lane; also Dior, the good Dior pieces from the 60’are highly collectible; Schiaparelli, Elsa Schiaparelli; the Italian designers – Coppola E Toppo is highly sought after; I would also say Christian Lacroix because he is no longer working and all of his pieces are different . . . his pieces are very collectible now. I would say a lot of French designers and the good American designers.
Covetable Christian Lacroix and Christian Dior pieces in Susie’s collection:
Christian Lacroix Cuff, Black Velvet & Gilt, Early 1980's, Paris
Christian Dior Necklace, Black Enamel & Rhinestone Ovals, 1970's
In The Seams
What is hot right now??
Susie Hoimes
Dramatic, big pieces. Big bold bibs . . . simple clothing with a wonderful bib. Lots of chains, long chains, gold chains like Chanel did. The layered look is really hot right now and big dramatic earrings. Those are all hot sellers right now.
Susie, the gem herself, demonstrating what is hot right now: lots of chains, layering, big dramatic earrings . . . .perfection!:
Antique Expert, Susie Hoimes
In The Seams
How has the vintage jewelry market changed since when you started in the business??
Susie Hoimes
I have always loved vintage jewelry but I think it has become far more collectible in the last few years. People are more aware. I think that people didn’t like vintage years ago, there were just a few of us, but now I think there are more and more people who appreciate it because it is timeless.
In The Seams
What are your future plans? What is next for Susie & MDVII Antiques?
Susie Hoimes
Well, actually, I am now starting to design my own bracelets and I have two lines that I am working on. One line is going to be inspired by Harry Fireside. He was at Saks for years in the Jewelry department until he died and I’m going to be making these amazing bracelets using Chinese work. And then I’m also embroidering my own bracelets and cuffs, which will be classics.
A few more wonderful pieces from MDVII and Susie to share with you:
Alexis Lahellec, Colored Wooden & Gilt Necklace, Paris
Miriam Haskell, Pearly Bracelet, 1950's, American
Miriam Haskell, Pearly Bracelet, 1950's, American, Detail
MDVII Antiques is a must visit . . . just make sure that Susie is in town, as she travels the world over showcasing her extraordinary collection.
Stay tuned for the video portion of my visit with Susie . . . you won’t be disappointed!!
MDVII Antiques
1507 1/2 Vallejo Street
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 931-4213
xoxo,
In The Seams